Bless the Rains down in Africa

The Good news is that my American Corn germinated yesterday, and its going to blow my neighbors mind. Guineans only grow field corn which you have to dry and burn before you eat it. When I take my corn right from the field, slap some overpriced Lebaneese fake butter on it, and pop it right into my mouth, they're going to flip. THe other good news is that the narco-rebels that were supposedley massing on our norther border were just a rumor. I could go on like this for a while, there has been nothing but good news in my life for quite a while...Except, the swimming hole that magically appeared behind my house once the heavy rains started is almost certainly filled with shistosaniasis (awful disease, i think its the next biggest killer after malaria). I've already swam in it so we'll just hope for the best. Almost immiedietley after my last entry Madeleine came and visited! She got here a few hours before I flew back in from Kenya so some freinds picked her up at the airport at 3am in Conakry, I was a bit worried, but she got out of the airport in no time and was spirited off the the PC Conakry house. I can't put words in her mouth, but I thought the trip was extraordinary. Guinea is gorgeous right now, I mean make you want to dance outside and convert back to paganism gorgeous. There are waterfalls everywhere, and more shades of green than you have ever seen in your life. We went hiking in this canyon near a village called Dookee with a few of my Friends, and at one point in the middle of a hike we repelled down a hole in a mountain side into a cave with a river running through the bottom of it. Everyone stripped down and jumped in this underground river and swam through the cave until the river bursts out of the side of the mountain in a waterfall. It was surreal.

Eventually we made it up to my site in the Fouta Jallon and spent four days greeting people and taking it in. I was worried we would be bored, but actually we both agreed that we would have liked more time to do nothing in the village. Maggie got to ride in an awful Bush taxi, eat a few plates of rice and sauce, and sport some Guinean clothes. As with Scott, having a visitor was wonderful and helped me look at this country with fresh eyes. Maggie was a fantastic traveler and put up with her one bout of Guinea sickness like a champ. I don't want to say much else because I hope to be able to convince her to write a blog entry, but it really was a wonderful trip.

Of course on the way out of the country the customs guy searched her bag, found her American money, took it, and told her she wasn't allowed to leave the country with it. But like a true Guinean she caused a big enough scene and eventually shamed them into giving it back. Guinea is a magical place sometimes, but almost as often it can be a real pain in the ass.

Since she left I have been living the life au village. My friend gave me some land in the middle of his family's field so I planted a bunch of American seeds that will probably not grow and convince everyone the white people should just stay out of the field, but Inshaullah we'll have some delicious carrots and beans and corn and tomatoes in 60 days or so. We are deep into the rainy season at the moment and every night the skies open up, but I like it. Everything, people included, are really vibrant. Even the cows which looked like they were going to keel over and die in April now make half hearted charges at you when you walk by as if to say....now that i'm well fed i'm putting you on alert...were taking over soon' The rain on my roof is great when it comes to lulling me to sleep, but it does drive a rather lot of critters into my house. I threw out an entire litter of baby mice living in my oatmeal the other day...I wasn't really that mad about the mice, the lost of the oatmeal was devestating.

I also walked into my bucket bath area, took my towel from a peg, and a snake dropped to the floor. I freaked out, ran out, grabbed by 10 year old neighbor and told him to arm himself and get into my bathroom stat. SO there we are, backs against the door to my latrine, huge pieces of wood in our hands, ready to do battle. I give him this manly nod like 'it will be an honor to battle this monster toghether', he nods back his readiness, and I kick the door open with the wood raised in front of my face. Yeah, it was my belt.

That one made the rounds of my neighbors in a hurry.

I have lots of plans for the next couple weeks (including the first step in launching my mango empire...have I told you about this yet? I'll wait a little but until I see how my plan to take over the world is progressing.) In all seriousness, I am definetley taking steps to see if exporting mangoes or mango products would be a viable business. It would be a great way to use a presently wasted resource in Guinea. I am in labe to price out wood for a huge solar dryer. I would like to form a co=op with some women in Fatako to start selling dried fruit. I'll keep you posted.

I am in Labe until Saturday morning, and can be reached at the following nummber...62874067

please call! I am going to recharge my phone asap.

I love you all, and I'll talk to you soon!
Con